The Lost Coast is a rugged stretch of wilderness along the Mendocino coast. It was too expensive for the state to continue Highway 1 through this area, so the coastline was left undeveloped. We chose to take advantage of this untouched beauty with a weekend backpacking trip to the southern portion of the Lost Coast.
Our trip began with a a drive up north. We prepared for forecasted rain, but it turned out to be a sunshine-y day. On our way, we stopped in Fort Bragg for lunch in a cozy cafe and a side excursion to Glass Beach (a stop recommended to us by a friend).

Glass Beach used to be a public dump in the 1940s, and the broken bits of glass that were once part of the trash have been polished smooth by the sand and waves over the years. There used to be more glass, but there was a decent amount remaining when we visited. The seascape itself was incredible. J also found rows and rows of small crabs hiding under the intertidal rocks.



We continued our drive up the coast, hoping to make it to our destination in time for the hike to our first campsite. Unfortunately, after driving back and forth (17 miles each way) on the sinuous highway in search for an unmarked paved road and 6 miles of narrow, unpaved road full of potholes (still slick from the previous week of rain), we knew it was getting too late to begin our hike.

Usal road. Dirt road. I was never in my life so tense as I was traveling on this road. I gripped my seat until my knuckles turned white. And I stopped taking photos after this segment, which was the okay part. On the way back from our trip, we saw a 4×4 stuck in a deep, wide puddle. Another truck was trying to pull it out. The two drivers stared at us in disbelief while we chugged on by in our little Honda Fit. That made us chuckle. I have to say, J was an excellent driver.
So we gathered some driftwood from the nearby beach, and settled down on a spot in the campground. We didn’t have the best sleep that night because our neighbors were a loud bunch. They decided to kick off the Memorial Day weekend by having a yowling sing-along to booming country pop at 3 a.m.

The next morning, we woke feeling unrested, but our spirits were not dampened. We joked about our neighbors and assured each other that they would not be joining us on the trail. Due to our delay of half a day, our itinerary had to be shortened, but that would leave us more time to enjoy the scenery.
And beautiful scenery it was.
The trail climbed up and down, winding in and out of forests and coastal bluffs.




We saw the prettiest wildflowers in bloom along the trail,



and even picked and ate some wild strawberries. They were so tiny!

This is where we set up our base camp, at Little Jackass beach. We took off our hiking boots and sank our toes into the cool, black sand. We watched brown pelicans dive into the water for their catches, and giggled at a couple of seals who would pop their heads out of the waves every now and then to stare at campers on the beach.


We explored some of the beach caves, and then had a dinner of andouille sausage and mac n’ cheese.


After dinner, we went for a stroll on the beach to admire the sunset.

We climbed over some big rocks to get a good view. The light was magical.




The next day, we set out for a day hike to Wheeler beach.

Sunrise

On the trail, view from the top.
On our way to Wheeler, we encountered three sets of hikers who were coming from the opposite direction. Each one told us to be on the lookout for a group of Roosevelt elk. Three big bulls, they said. Right on the trail in the direction we were headed for.
And then, we caught up to them. Since they were taking the same trail, all we could do was follow them. They were massive. With velvety antlers that reminded me of reindeer antlers. J was daring and got pretty close to them. Of course, I followed.

These were very shy, yet curious creatures. One guy hung back to nosh on some good shrubbery, while two went ahead. Since we didn’t want to come between the bull and his friends, we lingered a safe distance behind him. I think he was a little nervous about us though, because then he decided to run up a steep hill. Boy, not only are these guys agile, they’re fast as lightning, too!

We eventually passed the elk when they found a grazing spot off the trail, and reached Wheeler in time for lunch. Then we napped under the sun on warm — and very therapeutic — pebbles. Later, we flipped over onto our bellies to search for pretty pebbles.


After a relaxing afternoon, we started back towards our camp.

Amazingly, right before our campsite, we encountered another group of elk! These were younger males.



close-up

hiding
On our last day, we woke at the crack of dawn for a hurried hike back to the trailhead. It would be a long drive home.
View more photos here.